Hochner Family Blog

Just after returning from Bali, we were invited to Houshi, the oldest hotel (Ryokan or Japanese inn) in the world. Before reaching the ryokan itself, we stopped on the way to the nearby Natadera Temple.

This temple, the central temple of the local Shingon Sect, was first constructed in 717. It is one year older than the Houshi ryokan! It is nestled in a lovely grove of cedar trees in the hills south of Komatsu City.

The area was still covered with a bit of snow, but we were quite lucky to visit the place under the sun. Natadera Temple is said to have been established by the priest Taicho (who also started Awazu Onsen) when he placed the Senju Kannon (a statue of Kannon Bodhisattva, who had a thousand hands) in a stone cave. Toshitsune Maeda, the third lord of Kaga, rebuilt the magnificent temple. Natadera temple covers a large area and is made up of seven buildings, some of which are national treasures. The temple is famous for its momiji (Japanese maples) in autumn.

After visiting the temple, we went to the Houshi ryokan.
The owner of this place belongs to the family of Akiko’s mother, and I have heard about the place for quite a while — I finally got to see it.
Staying at a ryokan is usually a nice experience, but staying at this ryokan was simply incredible. Every single detail is taken care of to make sure our stay was perfect.
Tea was served upon our arrival, just after being welcomed by the owner, the 46th Zengoro Houshi. (I know my way of bowing is neither very good nor elegant, but I can’t help it, I’m only a gaijin.)

Our room was actually an apartment! A nice Japanese garden is located right outside the sliding window.

Houshi’s history spans 1,300 years and 46 generations! Our host, the 46th Zengoro Houshi and his wife, take pride not only on taking care of the oldest hotel in the world (with Guinness registration), but on the preservation of the resolve that led to Houshi's establishment so long ago. While upholding many fine traditions, they have integrated new ways of doing things to create a harmonious and seamless atmosphere. The two days spent there were one of my most memorable and best experience of Japan.
After a nice ofuro or onsen bath, we met Akiko’s parents for dinner in one of the large room. Here again, the dinner too was amazing. The food is usually an integral part of the pleasure of staying at a ryokan.

Before leaving, we got a chance to visit the special VIP room of the ryokan that is reserved to really special guests such as the Emperor family, etc.
The VIP room, or apartment, is located in the middle of the garden and is actually a different building by itself. It is composed of several rooms separated by sliding paper doors. The place, its detail and its atmosphere represent without doubt the utmost of the Japanese refinement.

From Houshi’s web site:

The lives of the Zengoros
In 718, Garyo Houshi, a follower of Taicho Daishi who was to become the first Zengoro, established Houshi as a spa for helping people cure a variety of illnesses. In 990, at the time of the 10th Zengoro, the retired and pious Emperor Hanayama visited Jishuzan Genyaji Temple. He renamed the temple Natadera Temple and in subsequent years often visited Houshi to bathe. At the time of the 17th Zengoro, the Genji (Minamoto) clan and the Heike (Taira) clan began fighting for military supremacy. In 1189 Yoshitsune Minamoto and Musashibo Benkei passed Ataka no Seki. While the 27th Zengoro was running Houshi, a riot broke out. It is said that Rennyo Shonin (Saint Rennyo) disguised himself as a Houshi chef. Enshu Kobori visited Houshi and guided the creation of a garden at the time of the 33rd Zengoro. Around this time old kutani was also created. In 1640 Toshitsune Maeda, lord of Kaga, visited Houshi and a Komon cedar was planted in commemoration. At the time of the 35th Zengoro, Basho Matsuo traveled around Hokuriku and wrote the haiku Ishiyama no ishi yori shiroshi aki no kaze. In 1779, the 39th Zengoro oversaw the establishment of a code called the "21 spa rules." At the time of the 41st Zengoro, the eight most scenic spots in Awazu- Awazu hakkei-were officially designated. Taro Katsura stayed at Houshi and wrote Zengoro at Enmeikaku when the 43rd Zengoro was at the helm of Houshi. Under the guidance of the 46th Zengoro, Houshi joined Les Henokiens, an organization comprised of family companies from around the world with a history of at least 200 years. In 1994 Houshi was recognized as the oldest hotel in the world by the publishers of The Guinness Book of Records.

Borobudur is one of these places I have dreamed of visiting for years, but didn’t get around to go before this trip. 

We could have taken a simple day trip from Bali to visit Borobudur, but this would not have enabled us to really see this amazing place. And on top of this, Borobudur is not the only site worth seeing in central Java. We selected to stay at a hotel in Yogyakarta, but if I had to decide now, I would most certainly choose to stay at the only hotel located right in the archaeological pack of Borobudur, to be able to see the sun rise over the monument.

We only had three days in Java and the first one was dedicated to Borobudur.  We left Yogyakarta as early as possible to take advantage of the good morning weather.
Borobudur, the temple on the hill, is the largest Buddhist structure in the world. It is not just an amazing structure full of beautiful bas-reliefs — it is a complete initiation to Buddhist art, religion and customs.

It was built by the Hindu kings of the Sailendra dynasty between 750 and 842 AD; 300 years before Cambodia’s Angkor Wat, 400 years before work had begun on the great European cathedrals. 
It features three tiers: a pyramidal base with five concentric square terraces, the trunk of a cone with three circular platforms and, at the top, a monumental stupa.
The walls and balustrades are decorated with fine low reliefs, covering a total surface area of some 2,500 sq. m and these would stretches for 5 kilometers if placed end-to-end. Around the upper circular platforms are 72 openwork stupas, each containing a statue of the Buddha.

Little is known of Borobudur’s early history. Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles revealed Borobudur Temple in 1814. He found the temple in ruin condition and ordered that the site be cleared and surveyed.

As mentioned, the whole monument was conceived as an initiatory mountain, and conveys the visitor to the heart of the life of Buddha with strong iconographical details. The temple is to be ascended level by level by those seeking the enlightenment that corresponds with the unity of the shrine's top. 
The most intricately adorned level features 160 carved panels depicting human joys and despair of the World of Desire. The 1300 bas-reliefs along the balustraded corridors of the square galleries forming the next five levels of terraces - the World of Form - represent scenes and teachings from the life of Buddha and the lives of 43 bodhisattvas: at this level, it is assumed that a person has achieved some mastery over worldly desires.
Finally, the three circular terraces are left plain except for the 72 perforated stupas, each containing a statue of Buddha: this World of Formlessness culminates in the bell-shaped but totally unadorned central stupa that is Nothingness and All, and symbolizes the Absolute. 

Since around the 12th century, Borobudur lay forgotten, abandoned to the destruction wrought by dense tropical vegetation and earthquakes. The construction came almost completely loose, gradually turning into a shapeless mound. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Prambanan, the second place we wanted to visit, is the largest temple complex in Java, with 224 temples. Located about 30 minutes east of Yogyakarta, the temples are believed to have been built by King Balitung Maha Sambu in the middle of the ninth century.
There are three main temples dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma (all manifestations of God for the Hindu).
The parapets of the structure are adorned with beautiful bas-reliefs depicting the famous Ramayana story.
The 40 meter high main temple of Shiva houses a magnificent statue of Shiva's consort, Durga.
During the high season (Summer), it is possible to see a representation of the Ramayana in the open air theater located right behind the archaeological park of the temple.

We took advantage of our visit to Jogyakarta to visit some batik school and factories. They really do some amazing work.