Hochner Family Blog

Maruoka Castle, the oldest castle still standing in Japan

 

While in the Fukui prefecture, we took the time to visit this nice little wonder.  Located on a high hill above Maruoka Town, this castle is also known as Kasumi ga Jo ("Mist Castle") because a legend tells that whenever an enemy approached the castle, a thick mist would appear and hide it to protect it in time of battle.

The Maruoka Castle was completed in 1576, and is the oldest one remaining of all the castles in Japan. I think it is a National Cultural Asset.

As usual, the whole structure is meant for defense more than for comfort. Its access is quite steep. The inside rooms are actually pretty simple and small, and everything was made to make it difficult to reach the upper stories that were used as the living quarters for the lord of the castle.

A rope has been prepared to help visitors move up and down between the floors. I wonder how they were doing without it, while fighting each other with sword.  

The park surrounding the castle has been selected as one of the top 100 most beautiful places for viewing cherry blossoms in Japan, but unfortunately we visited it way too early and won’t be able to come back.

After leaving the ryokan, we briefly visited the park Kenrokuen in Kanazawa. The falling snow over the Japanese garden reminded us that we were still in winter and the view was just beautiful.

Igashi no Chaya in Kanazawa is the old entertainment area, full of tea house (where people used to meet geishas).

 

 

 

And before starting the real purpose of the second part of our journey — crabs, or to be more precise, the Echizengani (Crab from the Echizen Coast), we had a look at the local fish market, Konoemachi Ichiba, where we saw some incredible specimens of these Echizengani or Zuwaigani (actually, the crab is the same, but its name depends on the location it comes from.) Now is the end of the season to catch and eat these crabs and it is for us the last chance we have.  They can reach a span of over a meter, and their price can go well over yen 12,000 at the market (this is over US$100 or euros 80). Needless to say, these figures increase when you order them in a restaurant.

The market was quite nice and as expected, all kind of fishes were available.

The Echizen Coast is famous in Japan for the Echizengani, or crab, drawing thousands of tourists each winter. We stayed in a small Minshuku (family pension) specialized in these crabs.  The season which goes from the end of November to Mid March was drawing to an end.  

Akiko and Julien choosing two crabs for the dinner. These crabs are so specific (and pricey) that they are marked with a label of origin upon their capture (the one from our place had a yellow plastic ring attached — its certificate of origin.)  One can also find some cheaper imports from Russia and Hokkaido, but these seems not to be the real thing when it comes to taste, at least according to the local people.
The four ways of preparing the crab: Kani Sashimi (Raw), Yakikani (Baked), Yudegani (boiled) and Seikozousui (crab eggs) in soup with rice.
Kani Sashimi (Raw) — the legs are cut off and immediately placed into icy water.  This will give the meat this special look.
Yakikani (Baked) — this was the body and half of the legs of the crab we ate raw.  The green stuff is one of the best part.
Yudegani (Boiled crab) — The crab is first placed into a basin full of hot water. After a little while, it is simply boiled in salty water for about 20–30 minutes. 
Seikozousui (crab eggs) in soup with rice — this was the last dish. The size of this female crab is smaller and it is full of eggs.

I usually do not like crab very much.  First, it is somewhat troublesome to get the meat, and then quite often, the taste is not worth the trouble. But these dishes were different — they were really something. The three of us had two large Echizengani crabs and a smaller one (with the eggs).  A couple at a table next to us had three of these huge crabs plus the smaller one.  I have no idea how they were able to finish.

 

Just after returning from Bali, we were invited to Houshi, the oldest hotel (Ryokan or Japanese inn) in the world. Before reaching the ryokan itself, we stopped on the way to the nearby Natadera Temple.

This temple, the central temple of the local Shingon Sect, was first constructed in 717. It is one year older than the Houshi ryokan! It is nestled in a lovely grove of cedar trees in the hills south of Komatsu City.

The area was still covered with a bit of snow, but we were quite lucky to visit the place under the sun. Natadera Temple is said to have been established by the priest Taicho (who also started Awazu Onsen) when he placed the Senju Kannon (a statue of Kannon Bodhisattva, who had a thousand hands) in a stone cave. Toshitsune Maeda, the third lord of Kaga, rebuilt the magnificent temple. Natadera temple covers a large area and is made up of seven buildings, some of which are national treasures. The temple is famous for its momiji (Japanese maples) in autumn.

After visiting the temple, we went to the Houshi ryokan.
The owner of this place belongs to the family of Akiko’s mother, and I have heard about the place for quite a while — I finally got to see it.
Staying at a ryokan is usually a nice experience, but staying at this ryokan was simply incredible. Every single detail is taken care of to make sure our stay was perfect.
Tea was served upon our arrival, just after being welcomed by the owner, the 46th Zengoro Houshi. (I know my way of bowing is neither very good nor elegant, but I can’t help it, I’m only a gaijin.)

Our room was actually an apartment! A nice Japanese garden is located right outside the sliding window.

Houshi’s history spans 1,300 years and 46 generations! Our host, the 46th Zengoro Houshi and his wife, take pride not only on taking care of the oldest hotel in the world (with Guinness registration), but on the preservation of the resolve that led to Houshi's establishment so long ago. While upholding many fine traditions, they have integrated new ways of doing things to create a harmonious and seamless atmosphere. The two days spent there were one of my most memorable and best experience of Japan.
After a nice ofuro or onsen bath, we met Akiko’s parents for dinner in one of the large room. Here again, the dinner too was amazing. The food is usually an integral part of the pleasure of staying at a ryokan.

Before leaving, we got a chance to visit the special VIP room of the ryokan that is reserved to really special guests such as the Emperor family, etc.
The VIP room, or apartment, is located in the middle of the garden and is actually a different building by itself. It is composed of several rooms separated by sliding paper doors. The place, its detail and its atmosphere represent without doubt the utmost of the Japanese refinement.

From Houshi’s web site:

The lives of the Zengoros
In 718, Garyo Houshi, a follower of Taicho Daishi who was to become the first Zengoro, established Houshi as a spa for helping people cure a variety of illnesses. In 990, at the time of the 10th Zengoro, the retired and pious Emperor Hanayama visited Jishuzan Genyaji Temple. He renamed the temple Natadera Temple and in subsequent years often visited Houshi to bathe. At the time of the 17th Zengoro, the Genji (Minamoto) clan and the Heike (Taira) clan began fighting for military supremacy. In 1189 Yoshitsune Minamoto and Musashibo Benkei passed Ataka no Seki. While the 27th Zengoro was running Houshi, a riot broke out. It is said that Rennyo Shonin (Saint Rennyo) disguised himself as a Houshi chef. Enshu Kobori visited Houshi and guided the creation of a garden at the time of the 33rd Zengoro. Around this time old kutani was also created. In 1640 Toshitsune Maeda, lord of Kaga, visited Houshi and a Komon cedar was planted in commemoration. At the time of the 35th Zengoro, Basho Matsuo traveled around Hokuriku and wrote the haiku Ishiyama no ishi yori shiroshi aki no kaze. In 1779, the 39th Zengoro oversaw the establishment of a code called the "21 spa rules." At the time of the 41st Zengoro, the eight most scenic spots in Awazu- Awazu hakkei-were officially designated. Taro Katsura stayed at Houshi and wrote Zengoro at Enmeikaku when the 43rd Zengoro was at the helm of Houshi. Under the guidance of the 46th Zengoro, Houshi joined Les Henokiens, an organization comprised of family companies from around the world with a history of at least 200 years. In 1994 Houshi was recognized as the oldest hotel in the world by the publishers of The Guinness Book of Records.

Borobudur is one of these places I have dreamed of visiting for years, but didn’t get around to go before this trip. 

We could have taken a simple day trip from Bali to visit Borobudur, but this would not have enabled us to really see this amazing place. And on top of this, Borobudur is not the only site worth seeing in central Java. We selected to stay at a hotel in Yogyakarta, but if I had to decide now, I would most certainly choose to stay at the only hotel located right in the archaeological pack of Borobudur, to be able to see the sun rise over the monument.

We only had three days in Java and the first one was dedicated to Borobudur.  We left Yogyakarta as early as possible to take advantage of the good morning weather.
Borobudur, the temple on the hill, is the largest Buddhist structure in the world. It is not just an amazing structure full of beautiful bas-reliefs — it is a complete initiation to Buddhist art, religion and customs.

It was built by the Hindu kings of the Sailendra dynasty between 750 and 842 AD; 300 years before Cambodia’s Angkor Wat, 400 years before work had begun on the great European cathedrals. 
It features three tiers: a pyramidal base with five concentric square terraces, the trunk of a cone with three circular platforms and, at the top, a monumental stupa.
The walls and balustrades are decorated with fine low reliefs, covering a total surface area of some 2,500 sq. m and these would stretches for 5 kilometers if placed end-to-end. Around the upper circular platforms are 72 openwork stupas, each containing a statue of the Buddha.

Little is known of Borobudur’s early history. Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles revealed Borobudur Temple in 1814. He found the temple in ruin condition and ordered that the site be cleared and surveyed.

As mentioned, the whole monument was conceived as an initiatory mountain, and conveys the visitor to the heart of the life of Buddha with strong iconographical details. The temple is to be ascended level by level by those seeking the enlightenment that corresponds with the unity of the shrine's top. 
The most intricately adorned level features 160 carved panels depicting human joys and despair of the World of Desire. The 1300 bas-reliefs along the balustraded corridors of the square galleries forming the next five levels of terraces - the World of Form - represent scenes and teachings from the life of Buddha and the lives of 43 bodhisattvas: at this level, it is assumed that a person has achieved some mastery over worldly desires.
Finally, the three circular terraces are left plain except for the 72 perforated stupas, each containing a statue of Buddha: this World of Formlessness culminates in the bell-shaped but totally unadorned central stupa that is Nothingness and All, and symbolizes the Absolute. 

Since around the 12th century, Borobudur lay forgotten, abandoned to the destruction wrought by dense tropical vegetation and earthquakes. The construction came almost completely loose, gradually turning into a shapeless mound. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Prambanan, the second place we wanted to visit, is the largest temple complex in Java, with 224 temples. Located about 30 minutes east of Yogyakarta, the temples are believed to have been built by King Balitung Maha Sambu in the middle of the ninth century.
There are three main temples dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma (all manifestations of God for the Hindu).
The parapets of the structure are adorned with beautiful bas-reliefs depicting the famous Ramayana story.
The 40 meter high main temple of Shiva houses a magnificent statue of Shiva's consort, Durga.
During the high season (Summer), it is possible to see a representation of the Ramayana in the open air theater located right behind the archaeological park of the temple.

We took advantage of our visit to Jogyakarta to visit some batik school and factories. They really do some amazing work.

One of the nice things about living in Japan is that there are many nice travel destinations around.  During Julien’s school vacation in February, we decided to go to Bali and Java.

There is no doubt in my mind: Bali, the Island of the Gods, is one of these magic places on earth (and don’t get me started about what I think are the other magic places around the world). 

Bali has it all — incredibly rich cultural heritage, beautiful sceneries such as these picturesque rice terraces, extremely friendly people, fascinating dancing with gorgeous costumes, good food, nice sandy beaches (although we didn’t really go there for these), sacred caves, lush tropical forests full of exotic wildlife, mountains and active volcanos, and much more.

This was our second visit and this time, we first stayed in Nusa Dua in the South, and then in Ubud, a little North of Denpasar, the capital.

No need to write a touristic review of Bali. let’s just say that we all really enjoyed our stay.  Here are simply a few pictures.
The direct flight from Tokyo took about seven hours and we arrived after night fall —  the arrival drink to put us in the mood was quite welcome.
Bali offers so many ways to indulge oneself. Needless to say, we both enjoyed some time at a spa.
Visiting market and temples
Everywhere, we could see some beautifully made handicrafts and souvenirs.  
And just about every day, we enjoyed some Balinese dancing — Barong dance, the famous Kecak, Legong dance, Kris dance, etc.
A simple visit to a temple can become an adventure….  Julien was firmly asked for food by a monkey at Ulawatu temple.

And then, of course, we managed to learn a little something about Balinese cooking.  Our hotel arranged a cooking class for us.
This started early morning by a visit to the market, followed by
some work in the kitchen and an excellent lunch!

Our dishes include the above skew (Sate Lilit with chicken and beef), Balinese boiled vegetable (Lawar Bali) and two desserts (Rujak Segar, mixed fresh fruits with tamarind and palm sugar and Kolak Pisang, boiled bananas with palm sugar and coconut milk).

Have a look at more photos HERE .

To be followed by a post on Java and Borobudur.

 

 

Meet our new friends at home.  On the left, you can see the Emperor and on the right, the Empress. These Kimekomi Dolls are the first ones made by Akiko.

Kimekomi in Japanese means Ki (Wood) Me (Groove) Komi (Insert). So, these dolls (Ningyou) are made by inserting fabric into the grooves of a wooden model.

Here is how she did.

As a beginner, she started by purchasing a kit containing all the necessary elements, the wooden shape onto which the fabric will be placed and inserted into the grooves, the fabric pieces, the heads, the paper model that will be used to cut the fabric, and the various accessories.

  The wooden shape (made with wood paste) is the base for the doll.  It features numerous grooves carved on it that recreates the flow of the cloth and/or kimono.  
Akiko starts by smoothening the wooden shape to make sure no irregularity will show up in the fabric that will be applied.
A hole is made for the head.  It is sometimes necessary to correct or fix some defects or part of the wooden shape.
The kit contains the fabric and the paper model with the pattern for every pieces of tissu that will be necessary for both dolls (her kit is for two dolls).  Akiko has to select what part (color, design, etc.) of the fabric will go where.
She then cuts these pieces one by one.
After that, she puts some glue into the groove, and
wrap the fabric around each section, inserting it properly into the grooves.

It is important to be careful not to create any wrong crease. This is not as easy as it looks.
The first piece of fabric in position.
And the second,

Once all the fabric has been placed on the model, the head is inserted and the accessories attached. The dolls are done. 

(It took her about six hours (with the help of an instructor) for these two dolls.)

 

Well, if you have kids, you most probably know what school vacations means. Yes, we just had two weeks of total family time together, and went to Bali and Java first, then we went for a little weekend on the other side of Japan, near Kanazawa, on the Japanese sea coast. I managed to catch a cold just before coming back home and this explains the long silence.We will catch up during the next few days.

During these three weeks, we managed to do quite a few things. Here are the next few posts we will working on.

Making Japanese dolls 

Akiko has joined a few French ladies and started to learn how to make some of these beautiful dolls by herself. Quite interesting.  

Bali / Java 

Borobudur
 

Houshi is the oldest Ryokan in Japan. It has been welcoming travelers for the last 1,300 years, and is being taking care by the same family for 46 generation. It was an incredible experience, mainly because being members of the owner’s family (by Akiko’s mother side) we were especially well treated.

Eating Echizengani Crabs in Mikuni (Fukui)

And last, we visited the Eiheiji Zen Temple in Fukui.